Leaves rained upon the cobbled pathways of North Agra. Monkeys bounded directly above, leaping from low hanging tree branches to rooftops. Shop owners had to bang sticks together menacingly to keep them out of their stalls and cafes – and even that was barely working.
I was taking a walk near to the river. The Taj Mahal was right next to me – except I couldn’t see it. It was blocked by a tremendously high wall. The path was supposed to take me through an outcrop of forest and field. But as the city began to fall away from me I suddenly fell into a thick stench. The smell of sewage which dominated the air was beyond repugnant. I’d never smelt anything so bad.
There was a monkey sitting nearby and I decided to take a picture of it. It was a crappy picture, but before I could take another there was a loud rustle from the bushes behind me. I turned around – but not fast enough. Another creature had emerged onto the path, it screeched at me and raked its claws down the back of my leg. The bastard! I fled the scene as a bunch of locals ran forwards yelling at the monkey. Thank fuck it didn’t break the skin.
I was now by the river which washes passed the hind-quarters of the Taj Mahal and dusk had settled over the great marble pillars. Some guys had seen what had happened and asked me if I was alright. They told me not to look the monkeys in the eye. Just don’t look at them at all. Great. They’re everywhere… I tried to continue talking with these guys, but my face was being assaulted by a hailstorm of midges and mosquitos and the stench of sewage seemed to be growing ever more powerful so I decided to get back to my hotel. Better to suffocate from the heat in my non-AC hotel room than suffocate from the stench of human feces.
My paranoia got the better of me however. And instead of returning to my hotel I went on a devastating night walk through Agra in search of a hospital that might give me an extra dose of the rabies vaccine. My walk took me to a few interesting hospitals, none of which were able to give me any help. My walk also took me through wide backstreets. Places devoid of vehicles but full of people shouting and dancing. They sent my ears ringing with violently loud music.
naatu naatu naatu naatu naatu naatu naatu naatu naatu….
