Held a quick consultation with Aaron and Erika. I was heading to Tivoli, determined to seek out Villa Adriana – the once home of Hadrian. They were all for coming with me, and Aaron took the lead on travel preparations. It was no simple journey.
Jumping off the bus in Tivoli, we were now on the very outskirts of Rome, and to say English was not commonly spoken would be putting it lightly. I’d have been absolutely finished without Aaron’s expert lingo.
We were on the brink of starvation and stopped for lunch down some suburban street where even Aaron struggled to understand the menu. We could only order what we could understand, and that was Rigatoni Ragu followed by a slice of jam tart. Then it was onwards to Hadrian’s Villa!
I wasn’t expecting much – I guess I just wanted to feel closer to those ancient figures I was staring at in the Vatican. But Hadrian’s villa was much more than I could have hoped for. It was outlandish – astounding in scope. Stylishly ruinous. A gateway to the ancient world which made me realise – the ancient world is one I’ll never truly comprehend. I’ve spent so much time reading about ancient history, but to be in this place, at the entrance to that distant world I love so much… I cannot possibly comprehend it in the way I often think I do. Hadrian’s Villa is – or rather was – a vast palace. Stylish, creative, ingenious.
I didn’t learn anything more about Hadrian’s private life, other than the fact that his personal chambers had two latrines in it. Perhaps one was for Antinous? What I wish I knew while I was there, was that part of the remains we looked upon were actually the remnants of a temple dedicated to Antinous. Some historians even believe it once housed Antinous’ remains. I like to think it did. But I also like to think that Hadrian didn’t sacrifice his lover to the gods like Cassius Dio claims. Even if it means Antinous committed suicide. But who knows? Hadrian was a very superstitious bloke apparently.
I climbed the steps down into what was once Hadrian’s personal bath and touched my hand to the flagstone where Hadrian’s bare foot once tread.
One of the most astounding things about the villa was how empty and peaceful it was, free from the plague of mass tourism. This beat my trip to the Vatican. It beat everything that came before it and became the most memorable highlight of my time in the eternal city. What I experienced in Hadrian’s Villa was the reason I came to Rome, and it wasn’t even in Rome.
Aaron was impressed by the lack of crowds, and Erika was in love with the scenic beauty. Having the whole day with the couple I learned more about them, including the fact that they were married only a month ago. They’re still newlyweds! And this is their honey moon of sorts. Bloody hell… I was really third wheeling it.
We came upon pine trees, and putting my nose to their trunks I found they smelt exactly like being inside a sauna.
Aaron and I talked about Davide’s rather hopeless situation. Aaron said he’ll grow out of it. Says that Davide simply can’t see that the girl he’s after isn’t meant for him. Aaron asked me about my relationships. I just said I’ve never been in love. Aaron told me stuff about love I haven’t heard before. He said that when you love someone, it’s not just about those intense feelings you get. It’s also that their host of annoying little habits simply don’t annoy you like they would other people, even when you spend all day with the person. I saw what he meant. He and Erika are both very different people, both winding each other up constantly, but they’ve got endless patience for each other. Then I suppose there’s the less conventional love you show to your partner by sacrificing them to the gods, like Hadrian (hopefully didn’t) do to Antinous.
Picked up some weird looking spinach pasta on the way back to hostel Trastevere and began my cooking the instant I returned, mixing the spinach pasta with the left-over Tortellini. The two David’s were in the kitchen, and Davide remarked on how much he liked spinach pasta, so I cooked some for him too.
We ate together in the dining area. Davide has not had a great day. His car’s been towed and the love of his life is still refusing to get back with him. After we’d eaten, Davide and I went for a walk together. I wanted to find out exactly where Trastevere train station was in preparation for my early start tomorrow. I have mere hours left in the eternal city.
