Hotel Balaji – a charming budget hotel in south-west Gwalior. Leading off from Naya Bazar Main Road, Gwalior, lies Hotel Balaji. It’s easy to miss – a single narrow corridor crammed between…
Author: S Kavanagh
DAY 153. All Roads Lead to Delhi
A one-hour flight from Srinagar to Delhi is surely no big deal. But my palms were oozing sweat, my heart jumping up into my throat and back down again, my brain sounding…
DAY 152. Don’t Look Back
Most of my decisions open doorways which lead down corridors of regret. Sometimes it’s the smaller simpler ones and sometimes it’s the really big ones. They’re left right and centre and I…
DAY 151. A Taste of Kashmir
The Mughal King dipped his fingers in the red sea before putting them in his mouth. For between his fingers was clutched a strand of chapati. The flavour that flooded him was…
DAY 150. High on Dal
(Some names have been changed). I awoke in my private room upon the houseboat on Dal Lake. In the cosy sitting room, Ahmad’s sisters fixed me some sweet saffron tea and gave…
DAY 149. Journey to Kashmir
(Some names have been changed). Through the trundle of my thoughts which were as bumpy and disconcerting as the road which brought me away from what was supposed to be my final…
DAY 148. Sting of Angst
(Some names have been changed). I checked out of the Hindustan backpackers politely. I felt embarrassed of how I’d acted the night before. I dispelled my sorrows in Connaught Place. After…
DAY 147. Ill Met by Sunset
(Some names have been changed). The windows had no curtains. Delhi was exposed to me as the bus trundled towards Kashmiri Gate. Was it smog or cloud that smeared itself across the…
DAY 141. Revelations in Punjab
The bus rocked and swerved. We seemed to be in an unnecessary race to get to the bottom of the mountain. The seat next to me was empty but despite this I…
DAY 140. Frozen in Manali
Steep and narrow roads lashed with rain. Cars plough through them, muddy water spraying and foaming around their tyres. My hostel is a horrid place with uncomfortable bunk beds and a horribly…
