After a lunch of yellow dal fry and roti, I walked down to the river Ganga and, placing my shoes and socks upon the sandy bank, I entered the holy waters….
Author: S Kavanagh
DAY 100. The Rule of Cow
The bus dropped me in the middle of nowhere. This was not the promised land… where the hell was Rishikesh? Where was the Ganges? Dust blew in my face and blanketed my…
DAY 95. Snappy snappy at the Taj Mahal
I awoke at sunrise to see the “Crown Palace.” I didn’t dare get up any later lest I be forced to queue in unbearable heat. What I forgot about however, is that…
DAY 94. Meeting with a Monkey’s Claw
Leaves rained upon the cobbled pathways of North Agra. Monkeys bounded directly above, leaping from low hanging tree branches to rooftops. Shop owners had to bang sticks together menacingly to keep them…
DAYS 89-93. What happened in Gwalior…
I was woken in the dead of night. The sleeper-bus had come to a halt. The door of my cabin was slid open and a guy beckoned me out of bed. What…
DAY 88. A Proposition and a Steadfast Exit
(Some names have been changed) The Amber Palace… upper gate Leaving Jaipur was the only viable option. I tried to convince myself to stay another few days, but despite the many comforting…
DAY 86. Jaipur takes on British Cuisine
I tucked into a full English breakfast for the third time in a row. Town Coffee 2.0 is a discovery that has solved all my problems – and by all my problems…
DAY 81. A Discovery of Parantha
Being sick – being stuck, stranded in the upper bunk of this mediocre hostel has made it damn impossible to explore Jaipur. The only glimpse of the famous “Pink City” I’ve been…
DAY 79. Journey to Jaipur
I boarded yet another sleeper bus. I was only in Ujjain for 3 days but it did me in. Home to the Mahakal Temple and the precious stone than sits within it,…
DAY 73. Delights & Delicacies of India’s Cleanest City
You hardly need the locals of Indore to tell you that it’s the cleanest city in the country. The evidence could not be more stark everywhere you look. But every second person…